Angela tramping in Abel Tasman NP |
My sister Angela was the second family member and first Wallace to come to see us in New Zealand, but the visit almost did not get off the ground. First, she changed the dates of her visit due to a scheduling conflict with a meeting in New Jersey, then with the Sept. 4th Christchurch quake, her Organizers conference here was canceled. She managed to fly in anyway on Sunday, Sept. 12th and came up to Timaru two days later. I was able to rearrange my work schedule on short notice and got off Thursday night the 16th until the 22nd. My original plan was to head to the northern part of the South Island, but aftershocks continued and caused a slide across the main road. Next idea: head south, over the Southern Alps to the West Coast. But, the day of departure, the headlines read "Storm the size of Australia to bring snow, rain, and high winds to New Zealand" Not wanting to become snowbound and reenact "The Shining" or "Misery", it was back to Plan A.
Turns out, that was the right call, despite some 4.4 aftershocks in Christchurch. Highway One just south of Kaikoura had been closed due to a quake-related slide, but that was cleared the night before we passed through. We drove in and out of the rain, but were lucky to stop mostly during breaks in the weather. This was true in Kaikoura, a formerly sleepy seaside village with a dramatic backdrop of nearby 8,500' snow-capped peaks.
It is now a tourist mecca, known for nature cruises and seafood, especially very large crayfish (which we would call spiny lobsters). Colonies of sperm whales live in the bay, and the locals are so confident they will appear, they will refund your whale-watching cruise fee if you don't spot some. We didn't have time for a cruise then, but definitely I will return to do that. Given the iffy weather, we pushed on to Nelson, our goal for the night. Nelson has a reputation as home to retirees and counter-culture and artistic types, and mild weather. It is also the gateway to Abel Tasman National Park, a seaside wilderness area, and many peoples' favorite place.
I can't disagree.
We ended up spending three nights in a very luxurious suite in Nelson, allowing a full day to explore the city environs. We climbed Botanic Hill to the "Centre of New Zealand" (a dubious claim) for a lovely view.Also worth visiting was the WOW (World of Wearable Art) & Classice Car Museum.
Angela and Fayne in a 2001 Plymouth Prowler |
Couture Design by Smith featured at the WOW Museum in New Zealand |
The area around Nelson is a rich agricultural area, growing apples, Kiwi fruit, citrus, and hops. We were able to participate in the extended, country-wide New Zealand Film Fest (our fourth venue) and saw "Exit Through the Gift Shop" [a "prankumentary" in my opinion (not my neologism, alas)], and the delightful "Babies". And of course there were many lovely beach scenes.
After Nelson, we headed south through Murchison and the Buller River Gorge and across Lewis Pass to the alpine village of Hanmer Springs. The weather this day was the worst of the trip, with steady driving rain and slushy snow over the pass. Fortunately, we didn't have to put on the chains, and we missed the heavy snow in the far south that caused roofs to collapse in Invercargill. Hanmer Springs is noted for the natural hot springs and baths, a bit like a tiny version of Calistoga. There is only one city-run hot springs, the water could have been hotter, it was under construction, and it was a bit more "family-oriented" than I expected.(A little bit like this) |
(but more like this) |
The village surroundings could not have been more lovely, with beautiful pastoral walkways through the early spring woodlands.
From there it was back to Christchurch Tuesday night to see Angela off Wednesday the 22nd morning (one day before her **th birthday). Hopefully, her NZ visit was worth all the trouble. We were surprised to find many Christchurch hotels booked, teeming with people coming in to assess and appraise the damage, do repair work, residents displaced from their homes, and some Metallica fans in for there two concerts "to save Christchurch". As they say, it is an ill wind that blows no good. On the way home we saw some evidence of the quake damage.
A secured turret from the Great Hall at the Arts Centre |
A severely damaged church near the epicenter |
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