Why this apparent obsession with reaching Cape Reinga? In large part, because it sticks out there at the Northernmost end of the country almost daring me to visit. The remoteness of it poses a challenge, making it more alluring to someone of my particular psychic make-up (good or bad- who's to say?). Add the fact it a sacred site steeped in Maori legend and culture, and it becomes an irresistible goal for me. Until very recently, much of the 116 Km. road from Kaitaia to Cape Reinga was gravel, and the most common return route was across the sands of 90 Mile Beach, unsuitable for a rental vehicle. Because of this most visitors like take a bus tour, which is what we did.
The cape sits at the end of the narrow Aupori Peninsula,which is Maori for "the tale of the fish", although it looks like an appendix to me. The first stop was a classic roadside tourist attraction, Ancient Kauri Kingdom. The kauri is a primitive giant evergreen tree that were abundant in prehistoric times, although there are a dwindling number of groves still left. There were at least two large forest destroyed in some unknown cataclysms in the distant past, which left behind large areas of buried trees. The wood never fossilized because of lack of minerals in the soil, so the tree trunks can be dredged up and used for furniture or other decorative items. North Coast residents will recognize the familiar lure of the staircase in the hollowed out tree trunk.
The other major product obtained from the kauri tree is gum from tree resin which collects at the top and the base of the trees. In the late 1800s this was very valuable and was collected and sold to make varnish and linoleum as well as other products. Immigrants mostly from Eastern Europe came to live in tents in the damp, dark, boggy areas
to dig large pits in the ground to harvest nuggets of gum stuck to the buried roots and limbs. At Gumdiggers Park we could see some of the hundreds of holes left behind.
As someone who had to try to dig post holes through sandstone in Soquel, I can attest at how difficult that is. (Many of those Yugoslav immigrant families stayed on to start the country's wine industry.)
The drive up the narrow peninsula continues past beautiful sandy deserted beaches such as Rarawa,
past tiny rest stops and general stores. We stopped for lunch at Tapotupotu Bay.
We were on a few Km away from our goal, Cape Reinga. While geographically not the northernmost spot on the North Island, Reinga (meaning "underworld") is the place in Maori legend where departed souls slide down the roots of an 800 year old pohutukawa tree to begin their journey back to the motherland, Hawaiki.
The lighthouse overlooks the meeting place of the Tasman Sea to the west and the greater Pacific ocean.
Looking to the west is Cape Maria van Dieman.
Then it was on to 90 mile Beach (a bit of a misnomer as it is only 60 miles long), known to surfers from the 60's film "Endless Summer" (featuring an outstanding left-hand break, or so I'm told). One of the activities was sand tobogganing on the giant sand dunes. Coming down was fast and fun, but climbing up was quite the opposite.
The day ended with this large bus driving 60 miles on the beach, stopping periodically to take in the sights.
Towards the end of the afternoon route were rewarded with a series of double rainbows. The intermittent rain combined with the angle of the bright sun created a "perfect storm" for rainbows.
We eventually ended up where we began, at the Ancient Kauri Kingdom. Overall it was a nearly perfect tourist day.
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