Why I Didn't Skydive in Queenstown, and Snowy Central Otago

Because it was raining. That is my answer and I'm sticking to it. You must understand, Queenstown is considered the "Global Adventure Capital" by the Lonely Planet Guide (the first commercial bungy jump was here), and we were visiting on my niece Laura Fayne's 21st birthday weekend, so adrenaline was in the air. Laura had had a thrilling experience tandem skydiving out of Cairns, Australia, and seemed to think it would be a good thing for anyone. It seems more acceptable to me to jump out of a plane at 10.000 feet strapped to an experienced instructor than to leap off over rocks or rivers to be jerked up by your ankles by an elastic cord, or to leap off a cliff to paraglide (just two of several fairly insane human endeavors people do here). But, on Sunday June 6th, the birthday in question, it was drizzly, icy cold and overcast. So we decided to go jet-boating on the Shotover River instead. This is another classic Queenstown activity, to careen through a narrow canyon in a very souped up large jet-ski, pausing briefly to spin in vertiginous 360' turns on a dime. When the freezing rain hits you face at that speed, it is a bit like tiny stings or needles. Fortunately, I was very prepared with enough warm protection for both of us and it was actually a lot of fun.

Because of the inclement weather, we stuck close to downtown the rest of the day for window-shopping after a classic burger at Fergburger. (Saturday night we had very good pizza and pasta at a joint down an alley, a funky former milking shed which was recommended by my old friend from Mt. Zion days Jay Luxenberg, called appropriately enough "The Cow". Thanks Jay!)

The birthday celebration was capped by a visit to Minus 5, an "ice bar". You pay an entry fee for 30 minutes and a Vodka cocktail in a refrigerated sub-freezing bar with ice block walls, ice sculptures, ice furniture, even ice cocktail glasses. It seems inspired by the ice hotels first in Scandinavia. They loan you a parka and gloves. It was quite a trip; recommended at least once. Here is my best bad photo through an outside window:

(I may post some other pictures on this later if Laura can send them to me.)

None of my photos really do justice to the beauty of the area. Here is a photo of the first European settler here, Mr.William Rees, and one of his ovine friends:

The next day was Monday, the holiday. The weather was worsening and I had some worries about getting home. The gals were quite snug in the room, so my first challenge was getting the troops moving.

I figured the pass we came over Saturday would be a bit "dodgy", as they say here, so I took a different path, longer but lower elevation, through Central Otago. There had been a fair amount of snow there too. The papers where full of the tale of 40 bikers going to the yearly "Brass Monkey" rally, ignoring the road closure signs over a nearby pass and needing rescue after being stranded for seven hours.

The landscape felt a bit like driving through Wyoming, lots of sheep and cattle, but the roads were kept clear, and we got home fine after about 5 1/2 hours on the road. All in all, a splendid time was had by all, and a truly memorable 21st birthday. L. F. left on Tuesday, back to Perth to prepare to return home to New York, where she is now. But she was a great travel companion, and we loved sharing the time with her.

A few bonuses: on on stargazing trip, Fraser Gunn a local photographer took some great pix of the night. Here is the Southern Cross.(His web site is www.laketekapo.cc.)

And one more enhanced view of the kiwi from Christchurch, the best yet, courtesy of David Nishikawa.