In the afternoon, we took a small water taxi out to a nearby motu (the Polynesian name for the small keys surrounding the main island). Our hotel provided this because they are in the middle of major renovations here and we actually have no pool. It has worked out OK for us though. We are not big pool people, the work has not been noisy, fewer people are here, and we got a better deal. They say they will be done July 2010. I say 2011 if they are lucky. There was a lot of weather today, rain and wind on and off, which made the lagoon more cloudy. Still fun to snorkel and relax with feet in the water.
and other more subtle techniques. Unless tomorrow's travel takes an unexpected detour to Gilligan's Island, I don't think I will be using my new knowledge, and they never really explained where you are supposed to get the sharp stick.
It was now time to go inland. As you see from the photos, Mo'orea is an island characterized by fantastic jagged mountain edges protruding into the sky covered with green velvety vegetation (it is after all the model for Bali Hai from South Pacific). The two major valleys represent the crater of an ancient volcano, and the surrounding ridges its rim. We signed up for a half-day tour in the back of a small 4-wheel drive vehicle. The views were incredible,
but frequently the most memorable parts of these sojourns are the company you keep. There were two American couples, a 40-year-old single woman from Philadelphia planning to celebrate her birthday on her own in Polynesia, and a French couple from New Caledonia. Now I will be the first to admit I know less than nothing about New Caledonia. However, after spending half a day with these people, I feel like I must go there. (We will see if that actually happens.) Like French Polynesia, their country is an autonomous region of France; in fact they use the same currency as Tahiti. It is located somewhere between New Zealand and Australia (look at the map; I had to). Perhaps I will figure a way to visit there between the latter two countries. After all, how many Americans can say that they have been to New Caledonia?
This is a particularly small and sweet fruit which is eaten locally and made into juice. There were also many small patches of other tropical fruits and flowers.
For dinner we were directed to a small French restaurant at water's edge on Cook's Bay, Te Honu Iti. It happens to listed in the book "1,000 Places To See Before You Die", for what that's worth. It was a calm, warm night, and we could watch the rays and other fishes in the water. The food was great. We met a young gorgeous and friendly couple fr0m Sao Paulo on their honeymoon, of course. She does R&D for a Brazilian company that makes playing cards, and her work has taken her all over the world. Who'd a thunk it?
Tuesday night we took in a little local culture at the Tiki Village. If you’ve been to a luau, you know the routine. It was relatively low-key and sincere, with a pit barbeque (see photo), displays of local handicrafts, and a dance and drum extravaganza. It was a beautiful, warm night, and everyone was in good spirits because we are all on vacation, in a “paradise”, and know we will never see each other again. Visitors are from all over; US, France, Japan, Italy, Spain, etc., and 65% are there for a honeymoon. We also learned in Tahiti that tourism has been way down the last few years, from a high of 400,000 to 120,000/year, so places are uncrowded and the locals are eager to please. At the end of the evening, the proprietor came out, a Frenchman in a flowing robe straight out of “Couples Retreat” (if you saw the movie).
snorkel, and lunch on a small islet. It was just as great as you might imagine. I probably was in the water for over two hours. Even Fayne joined in the fun (although I did not buy the DVD documenting it; you’ll have to take my word). The amazing colorful array of sea life is awe inspiring. I’m so glad I got a new mask with prescription lenses so I could enjoy it all, and also find the boat when it was time to come in. Life is good.
Our brief (less than 40 hours) stay on the Isle of Tahiti ended in the most pleasant fashion, with a half day Circle Tour of the island. We saw waterfalls, grottoes, sacred ancient sites, and had a trip to the Paul Gauguin Museum. The museum is on a particularly lovely spot overlooking the beautiful lagoon and the ocean, although there is very little original artwork, there is preserved the lintel which was at the entryway of his home in the Marquesas, where he died at age 55 of either a heart attack or syphilis, depending upon which source you believe.
There were also some interesting stone tiki statues there, which made for a lovely tourist photo op. (I think I have a very similar photograph with a Mayan statue from San Antonio, among many others.)
We arrived in Mo’orea very tired and once again after dark.
We had breakfast on the balcony accompanied by some avian friends.
This hotel is undergoing some significant renovations, which makes it ironically somewhat more suited to us. They are fewer people here, and they’ve clearly happy to have the guests. We learned yesterday that tourism is down significantly in French Polynesia, from about 400,000 per year a few years ago to a little over 100,000 per year now. This hotel is home to a hospital for sick and injured sea turtles,
and there are some dolphins here, although I have to look at that completely differently having seen the movie “The Cove”. We are taking it easy today, regrouping, planning the next few days. Tonight we will visit a Polynesian cultural Center with some traditional food and dance (I’m sure It’s the local version of the luau, but we are looking forward to it).
